Vermicomposting

Vermicomposting is the natural process of using Worms to break down the organic wastes into humus.

Humus or vermicompost is black and soil-like substance that is rich in phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium.

When applied to soil, it can amend its quality and improve plant growth and reduces a huge amount of kitchen wastes. It slows down the process of filling up the landfills which can have a great impact to the environment.

The good thing about this type of composting is its flexibility—it is fine to add wet kitchen scraps every day into the mixture.

Worms, the primary agent in turning organic materials into vermicompost, contain eleven times more potassium, seven times more phosphorous, five times more nitrogen than ordinary soil.

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The casts, vermin poop, are rich in humic acid as well. Humic acid is a remarkable soil conditioner that has a perfect pH balance and composed of plant growth elements similar to those found in seaweeds.

But unlike the usual large earthworms that are found to be burrowing the ground, the worms cultivated in vermicomposting different. They are known with their names such as Red Wigglers , Red Tiger, Red Worms, Blue Worms and African Nightcrawlers.

Photo courtesy of Red58bill

These worms live close to the surface where there are high concentrations of organic matter like the leaf mould, pastures or under compost piles.

Nonetheless, there are two species of vermin, namely Eisenia foetida and Lumbricus rubellas, used in composting. These worms can be purchased from worm farms, garden centers and retailers.

To breed them for composting, around 1,000 worms are needed or 2,000 to include the garden wastes in composting. They can be contained in a worm box, earthen pots, styroform boxes or plastic basin. There are also containers especially designed for vermicomposting, and that are available commercially.

To start the composting process, the organic materials should be prepared so the worms can start consuming them. The mixture of organic wastes varies. There is a combination of manure and Ipil-Ipil or Kakawate in a ratio of 2:1.

There is also the combination of rice straw and manure in a ratio of 1:1. Grasses and chicken manure can make up the ratio of 3:1. Sawdust and Ipil-Ipil can be combined in a ratio of 3:1, while compost , rice straw and corn barn can be mixed in a ratio of 1:1. Finally, cardboard and paper pulp can be mixed.

Or, all the kitchen wastes can be mixed in a container together with materials for carbon such as cardboard paper or brown leaves or straw.

Commercialized container for vermicomposting provides a separate material such as Bokashi to mix with the kitchen wastes and stimulate composting.

The stages in vermicomposting are three: anaerobic, aerobic and harvesting. In anaerobic state, the materials are cut into smaller pieces for use as substrate.

Bolo or scissors will do fine. Finer materials are easier and quicker to decompose. The materials should be mixed thoroughly before they are placed for decomposition in a chamber. They should also be moistened and covered to initiate the anaerobic composting.

Normally, it will take 10 to 15 days to complete the process before they are ready for worm consumption.

After the anaerobic, the vermin are added into the substrate for the aerobic composting, which takes from 40 to 60 days depending on the materials used and the ratio of the substrate to the vermin.

Throughout the period, the substrate should be moistened regularly to stimulate the propagation of the worms and to provide the necessary moisture.

Approximately 6 weeks after the aerobic vermicomposting, the vermicompost is now ready for harvest. However, a week before this special event, it is advised not to moisten the substrate.

This is to ease the segregation of castings from worms and preclude the castings from becoming compact. The breeder worms should also be separated from new worms by keeping them in different chambers.of the nature’s preferences in fertilizing the soil and enhance the environment.

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